A Burgundian Finale!

To end my blog series, I'd like to share with you our trip to Burgandy, France...

We have come to adore Pinot Noirs, and we went to go explore their roots. This pilgrimage helped us to appreciate both European and Californian wine a bit more. I always encourage wine tourism because it's educational, breathtaking, exciting, and full-filling in so many ways.

First off, to travel there, you need to take a train from Paris to Dijon, and then another one from Dijon to Beaune, the base town for a Burgundian tour.

2nd, wine tasting here is NOT the same as in California. You can't just drive up to the wineries and expect a glamorous tasting room with a perky, welcoming wine club attendant. Keep in mind that most wineries in France are generations old, which means that they have survived because they have a loyal following with consumers, restaurants, and distributors. They don't need to please tourists who will probably only buy 1 or 2 bottles of wine. Some might view this is "stuffy" but I think it shows history and culture, so it should be appreciated for what it is.

We did a bit of research and learned how to go wine tasting in Burgundy and found 2 proper ways....

1. Jeep/Van Tour

Companies: Authentica and Chemins de Bourgogne

Both of these tour companies were amazing: provided great information, tastings, and scenic views. There are multiple tours to choose from, whether you want a meal included, cheese tasting, or a simple vineyard drive along. Do a bit of research, and you will find tours that fit your style and budget.

Some key things we learned were...
a. ALL of the grapes in Burgundy are Pinot Noir. Government-mandated.
b. Quality is marked and controlled on the label. Look for "Village" or "Premier Cru" for your best bets (these mean that the quality is a bit higher and the winemaker is involved with the process from start to finish). Amazingly, this labeling is government controlled as well, so you know what you are getting. Now, if only California regulated what "Reserve" means....
c. Each region within Burgundy are distinct. Our favorites were the "Village" qualities of Beaune and Gevrey Chambertin. Fruit forward, but not jammy, and earthy notes that are not too overwhelming. Overall, great balance.

Sweeping vineyard views

Castle among the vines

Awed...

French vines. The long stem is referred to as a "baguette" and the short one is called "croissant" - Oh, Frenchies :)

Wine tasting at a family vineyard

Touring their generations-old wine cellar

Yes, GENERATIONS old. Reminds me of "Cask of the Amontillado".

Bought a bottle of "Gevrey Chambertin" for our wedding night.

2. Cellar tours, walking around Beaune

Winery: Mache Aux Vins

Stay overnight (or maybe 2-3 nights) in lovely Beaune, a little town with a wonderful wine-making past and present. Wander in and out of alleys, have snacks and house wine at random cafes, splurge and have dinner in a wine cave, and explore the ancient wine cellars masked as modern store fronts. Most are guided tours of cellars and caves, but some are self-guided. One we will highlight is Marche Aux Vins, a self-guided and self-pouring cellar tour. This "store" may not be among the vast vineyards, but we found it to be so much more...

Wandering in Beaune

Inside Marche.... looks like it could be a typical wine tasting on a long flat table, but....

... instead, you are lead downstairs into a wine cave/cellar!

Wines are labeled with descriptions. The tour is self-guided.

We are able to pour our own tastings. Very trusting of tourists. We remained surprisingly mature through this process.

Being a self-guided tour, we were able to move about at our own pace.

 

 Wine has taken us far and wide, shown us unique differences between people and cultures, made us open-minded about possibilities. I end my blog on this note: my journey isn't over, but I turn it over to you to take you places and experience/taste things you never knew of. Why? Because it's just good l'vin(o).

Finding wine, finding myself

Pinot Noir has become my favorite wine - so versatile, pleasing, and distinguishable between key regions. Some favorites - Sonoma, Russian River Valley, Oregon, Burgandy, SLO. Why? I have come to really like fruit-forward (not jammy) qualities with light earth tones. This is my go-to style, and each of the mentioned regions give different degrees of this. I don't know what it is, but writing just can't seem to describe why I react with "Oh.... my.... God!" with quality wines from these places. Is it the way that the sweeping vineyard views, gorgeous weather, mystic fog, soil, minerals from the earth, TLC of the hands and minds that handle the grapes and vines, and inviting sunshine is somehow compressed into a simple, humble glass? Because Pinot Noirs are so distinct, it is easy to mentally transport back to some of our favorite trips...
And now, I am about to embark on a new adventure... to Japan! My wine journey is not ending; in fact, my self-education with sake will begin. However, I am still wondering why I am cutting off my flowing supply of great, accessible wine.

As I live in Japan, I will see how my perspectives (on wine) change. How much will I miss it? Will sake and Sapparo be able to fill the void? Will Japanese food naturally change my cravings? (FYI - ramen and red wine do NOT go together).

Thank you for reading my blog. It was not created with any ambition - just a simple desire to record what I learn and hopes to share knowledge with others who are curious.

I choose to end my blog, though, to begin a new one, which will chronicle my time in Japan. Through writing this blog, I have learned the importance of recording experiences, having an outlet for ideas and reflection, and looking back on growth. I am excited to see how my next writing journey develops!

Don't Mess with Texas Wine

Texas got wine?

I had no idea. What a pleasant surprise as I planned my trip to San Antonio. I originally thought I would take 2 days to meander through the old town, past the Alamo, through the River Walk, but then I somehow stumbled upon Texas wine country while browsing online (oh, the treasures I find!). I quickly cut my San Antonio self-tour to one evening, and then I spent the next day and a half in Fredericksburg, 1.25 hours from San Antonio. Unintentionally, I found myself in the real Texas, the flat countryside, with the smokin' BBQ and good ol' Texan hospitality (especially in the tasting rooms). Cabernet Sauvignon and juicy, tender beef ribs? Yee-haw!

Barrel room with Texan love

Texas mostly grows Bordeaux varietals like Cabs, Merlots, Cab Francs, but we found a lovely locally-grown Pinot Noir that we just adored. Winery: Sister Creek Winery

Only in Texas...

Tasting at Sister Creek Winery

Saloon-like set up at Becker Vineyards

Enjoying the outdoor setting at Becker Vineyards

Good excuse...

Drinking with the locals. Yes, that's a real belt.

Thank you Texas! I look forward to spreading the news about your awesome wines!

Temecula's WoW (World of Wine) event

WoW... I love being a wine person!

$90 per ticket (which can be shared between a couple) that can be used over 2 days.

30+ wineries participating

2+ wine tastings paired with gourmet food samples - per winery

a gastronomically FANTASTIC weekend.

(see photos below)

No other words necessary. I'll let you know when the next event is approaching....

Groundwork Grenache - Santa Barbara

***

A while back, I wrote about an unfortunate attempt at a bus trip to Santa Barbara wine country with Learn About Wine (through no fault of this company). A couple of months later, our trip, deemed the "Burning Bus Tour" (nice!), was rescheduled and we were on our way!

I would highly recommend anyone to take a trip with Learn About Wine. Professional, organized, informative, and fun!

The trip occurred in 2010, and a little more than a year later, we found ourselves digging through our wine collection, finding this bottle, the Groundwork Grenache ($20), and reminiscing... "Oh yeah, remember that?"

Actually BETTER than what I remembered. Fruit with a hint of spice, smooth and medium-bodied, chilled at 55 degrees to make it refreshing on a 100 degree day (*hint: we use a mini-fridge to store our red wines. We turned it down to "low" and it happens to be around 55 degrees! Much cheaper than purchasing a wine fridge.)

Then it all came back to us.... outdoor tasting, trying the excellent wines of Sans Liege, but the wine-maker raving about this particular bottle, his favorite, his passion, his label called Groundwork.

Just to let you know, Grenache is usually used as a blending grape along with Syrah and Mourvedre to create the lovely "Rhone" blend. It is brave and wonderful for him to venture this way. I appreciate it more and more with every sip (and a chug here and there).

To passion, uniqueness, and accomplishment... Cheers!

***

Santa Barbara Vintner's Visa / Passport (and suggested itinerary)

(scroll down to read a suggested itinerary if traveling from Los Angeles)

*my tasting notes*

Ah, the dilemmas of visiting wine regions....


How many wineries can you go to? At $10 per tasting room (at least), the fees can add up.

You want to purchase wines, but again, it could end up costly. The more you drink, the more you want to bring the wine home (darn that warm, fuzzy, friendly, loving feeling that wine gives me!)

Which wineries do you choose to go to? In the Santa Barbara area, there are over 50 wineries to choose from, and so many well-crafted and delicious Chardonnays, Pinot Noirs, and Syrahs to experience! Where do you even begin planning?

To solve your dilemma, I would suggest participating in visa/passport events. You purchase one ticket (usually about $40-50), which has several participating wineries on a checklist (at least 12). You go to as many of the wineries that your tolerance allows and get each of the places stamped (like a passport). The tastings are the same or better for visa/passport participants (who are usually offered snacks, a separate area to lounge in, and/or treated to reserve tastings). Want to bring wine home? Wineries usually offer amazing deals for the event!

I have participated in several passport/visa events in SB wine country, from vineyards on the countryside to tasting rooms in the quaint towns (most recently, the Santa Barbara Vintner's Visa).

After tasting through several Santa Barbara visas, I present my list of favorite wineries/tasting rooms in this region...
 click here for detailed map

Solvang (tasting rooms):
Mandolina
Lucas and Lewellen

Los Olivos (tasting rooms):
Stolpman
Daniel Gehrs

Santa Barbara (tasting rooms):
Santa Barbara Winery/ La Fond Winery
Oreana Winemaking Company

Santa Ynez (vineyards):
Buttonwood
Rideau
Bridlewood
Gainey
Sunstone

Foxen Canyon (vineyards):
Kenneth Volk
Foxen
Zaca Mesa
Demetria
Riverbench

**********
Suggested FULL, 3-day itinerary if traveling from Los Angeles:

There are MANY other vineyards and tasting rooms to visit, but if it's your first time in this wine region, these are good ones to start with. Links to all wineries mentioned in the itinerary can be found in the list above (which is organized by area). Please read my tasting tips before going.

Day 1
Take 101N to the 154, which is indicated by "State Street" exit (the 154 is also known as the San Marcos Pass - BREATHTAKING views of the mountainside!) Eat breakfast at Los Olivos Grocery (their cafe has a pretty view). Visit Bridlewood (Santa Ynez), and then head to Los Olivos to explore. Eat lunch at Panino, and taste at Stolpman and Daniel Gehrs. After, head south on Alamo Pintado Road, hitting up Buttonwood and Rideau (Santa Ynez), and end up in Solvang to finish off your day of tasting with Mandolina and Lucas&Lewellen. Have dinner at Cafe Angelica. Stay overnight at the newly re-modeled Kronborg Inn.

Day 2
Breakfast in Solvang at Paula's Pancakes (sit at the counter to avoid a 20-30 minute wait for a table). Head to the R Country Market in Los Olivos to pick up food for a picnic lunch. Head up to Foxen Canyon to taste at Ken Volk, Foxen, Zaca Mesa, Demetria, and Riverbench, and take time to soak in the phenomenal views. Head back down for dinner at the Hitching Post (have their Merlot with one of their steaks, and walk around the bar to view pictures from Sideways), and then stay overnight again at the Kronborg Inn.

Day 3
Make sure you wake up early for a light continental breakfast at the Kronborg Inn because you want to make sure to go taste at the lovely Sunstone Vineyard (Santa Ynez). Afterwards, go eat lunch at The Vineyard House, and go taste at the magnificent Gainey Winery (Santa Ynez) on your way back to the 154 Pass (it's so pretty - why NOT go back this way?). On your way back down the 101, taste in the city (Santa Barbara) at Oreana and Santa Barbara Winery. Dinner at Beachbreak Cafe (cool local joint).

Day 4
You will be TIRED at work, but that just means you had an AWESOME weekend!

***I packed a lot into the itinerary, but you should take out items on the list that do not seem reasonable for your tolerance or price-range. Check store websites for current hours, exact locations, and menus. Please drink responsibly. When in doubt, eat more and stay a while in the town or winery you are in.***

Paso Robles, Part 2: Far Out Wineries

*map: courtesy of faroutwineries.com*

The following wineries are more north-west, and a bit "out of the way" compared to the wineries on the 46. Here are the ones worth visiting(wineries listed from west to east):


1. JUSTIN: Known for their custom reds- JUSTIFICATION, ISOSCELES, OBTUSE. Beautiful winery. Tour recommended (for appointment call 805.238.6932 ext. 3224 )

2. Le Cuvier: Smooth reds with various layers. Nice craftsmanship, especially with their Pinot Noir and Cab. Franc.

3. Tablas Creek: Specializing in Rhone varietals, so expect jammy fruit with a side of tannins.

4. Tolo Cellars: These wines are more spicy and tannic. There are even signs of green peppers and pepperoncinis. Appetizing wines for a great meal!

5. Adelaida Cellars: our FAVORITE in this region. These wines are clean, silky, sexy, amazing.

6. Opolo Vineyards: Earthy yet smooth, with hints of fruitines.

7. Minassian-Young: An up-and-coming winery. Big, unique reds worth visiting.


click here to view more on Paso Robles (wineries along the 46 east and west)

The Oregon Wine Trail!

(scroll down for advice on Portland)


Oregon's Willamette Valley. (It's "will-Ah-mit" damnit!) Lush rolling hills. Indecisive weather. As we drove around to taste, we encountered rain, hail, clouds, and sunshine, each lasting for no more than 5-10 minutes at a time. What an adventure!

The Pinot Noirs in Willamette are so unique and amazing that Riedel actually made glasses specifically for them! Most wineries offer their tastings in these:

Within the Willamette Valley, there are different regions, but their commitment to produce good quality wines that are 100% Pinots is similar. The two areas that we got to know were Dundee and Newberg. click here for map

Suggested Wineries in Dundee (expect the wines to be more smoky, earthy, delicate):
-Erath
-Torii Mor
-Four Graces
-Sokol Blosser
-Dobbes, Wines by Joe
-Argyle

Suggested Wineries in Newburg (expect the wines to be more complex, full, fruit-forward):
-Trisaetum
-Penner Ash
-Vidon
-Aramenta
-Bergstrom

Suggested place to Stay:
-Chehalem Ridge Bed and Breakfast
This B&B offers cozy rooms, breakfasts that present culinary expertise, and a panoramic view over the Willamette Valley for a very affordable prices, starting at $120 a night (we stayed in the "Oregon Trail Room").


*******************
PORTLAND (45 min. from Willamette Valley):

While in Oregon, I'd encourage you to explore Portland for a day or two. The transportation is easy to use, and the people are extremely helpful. A few things I'd like to recommend while in the city:

"First Thursday" Gallery Walk: Art galleries and boutique shops stay open late every first Thursday of the month. Some shops even offer free wine and snacks. Great event!

Andina Peruvian Restaurant. Delicious, tapas style. Rich in flavor, just like the way they prepare seafood in Peru:

*Andina's seafood paella

Deschutes Brewery:

Try... 

- Streaking the Quad (honey after-taste, thick, slight fizz)

- Ivanna Weiss (crisp, banana on palette)

- Bourbon Barrel aged Hop in the Dark (in between IPA and stout, malty and complex)

ROGUE Brewery:

Try... 

- Hazelnut Brown (tastes how it sounds)

- Dead Guy (hops and honey)

- Honey Orange Wheat (crisp, with long-full citrusy-hoppy finish)

Beer Meets Wine in San Marcos

How does beer tasting end up on a wine blog? How are the two worlds connected? There are more connections between beer and wine than you may know about. After a trip to the Lost Abbey in San Marcos, I am THRILLED to review my experience!


The setting of the Lost Abbey is not one to "wow" - rows of office complexes, empty side roads, in a town with chain-store-filled plazas. Being a winery junkie, this setting reminded me of the "wine ghetto" in Lompoc. Yes, you read it correctly. There is such a territory called the "wine ghetto." It's basically wineries who set up tasting and barrel rooms away from their vineyard in an office complex area. After tasting at these wine ghettos, I learned not to let the setting thow me off because I found some amazing, delicious wine, and I found some amazing, delicious beer at the Lost Abbey.


We arrived before it opened: empty parking lot, tinted doors, obscure sign. And then the garage door lifted up to reveal a magnificent, big, open tap room with brewing tanks and barrels in the background. Yes, you read it correctly - BARRELS!

This brewery specializes in Belgian-style beers, which are typically aged in used Bourbon barrels. The Lost Abbey took it a step further and age their beers in not only Bourbon barrels, but wine and Jack Daniels barrels.

 

 

I was even more excited when I actually recognized a vineyard label on one of the barrels: Havens. A while back I tasted and reviewed a Havens '05 Merlot. As I was wandering along in the back storage room, I found a Havens '06 Merlot barrel. If this beer turns out anything like the wine, it'll be great with food and have an extra "kick" on your taste buds.

Beer tasting is not unlike wine tasting. You focus on the aromas, color, taste, finish. Being a wine tasting enthusiast, I had a great time applying my knowledge. What kinds of beer flavors do I enjoy? Caramel aromas; darker - brown/black colors with a layer of head; rich, creamy, and slightly hoppy taste; a smooth finish that leaves the flavor coating your tongue. And food pairing? The Lost Abbey suggests NY HOT DOGS! This brewery sells hot dogs right outside for the pleasure of their avid drinkers! PURE GENIUS.

Tastings: $1 per beer, about 3oz. Choose your favorite and pay up for a pint! Decent prices, friendly, just an overall great time!

******

The Lost Abbey / Port Brewing
155 Mata Way, Suite 104
San Marcos, CA 92069